Window security hardware: the components to ask for

When a window is sold as “secure” or “burglar-resistant”, the risk is that you end up buying a label instead of real components. The difference between a window that resists a screwdriver and one that pops open in ten seconds isn’t in the brand on the brochure: it’s in five or six precise pieces of hardware — the locking mechanism, the keeps, the hinges, the handle, the cylinder and the glass. Put together, these are the components that make up a resistance class and create genuine security. This article doesn’t walk through the RC classes in detail (a separate guide covers that): it gives you the practical checklist of components to ask for and verify in your quote, item by item, so you know exactly what you’re buying.

First, a clarification: the RC class is the sum of its components

The burglar-resistance class — EN 1627, with its classes from RC1 to RC6 — isn’t some magic property of the window. It’s the laboratory-tested result of the whole assembly of components: a window achieves RC2 because it has that specific hardware, those keeps, that glass and those hinges, fitted and adjusted in a particular way, and because a technician tried to break in for the required time and failed.

For this reason, the RC class and the individual components need to be looked at together, but with different roles. The class is the reference framework (how much resistance, against what kind of intruder); the components are what you’re actually buying. If you want to understand which class you need based on floor level, urban context and budget, that’s covered in the dedicated guide to burglar-resistant windows and RC2-RC3 classes. Here we stay with the parts: what they should be, how to recognise them, and what to get written down in black and white.

An honest caveat: a window that’s “robust” on its components doesn’t automatically equal a certified RC class. Certification requires a laboratory test on that precise assembly. That said, knowing the components still lets you raise the real level of security substantially, even when full certification isn’t part of the plan.

The component checklist, in order of importance

Let’s tabulate the six components that make a window secure, with the “standard residential” version and the “security” version to ask for. This is the map we’ll use for the rest of the article.

Component	Standard version	Security version to ask for
Locking hardware	Basic multi-point, 4-6 locking points	Reinforced multi-point, 8-12 locking points
Keeps / cams	Linear (roller) cams	Mushroom cams + steel keeps
Hinges	Standard	Anti-lift
Handle	Simple lever	Key-locking or push-button, anti-rotation
Cylinder (where fitted)	Absent or basic	Certified security cylinder
Glass	Float sealed unit	Impact-resistant laminated (e.g. 33.1 / 44.4)

Let’s go through them one by one.

1. Multi-point hardware: the heart of the system

The hardware is the set of mechanisms hidden inside the sash frame that, when the handle is turned, drive the locking points into the keeps on the fixed frame. It’s by far the most important component: a window with laminated glass but poor hardware can still be forced open by levering the sash.

What to ask for:

• A multi-point system (not single-point locking): locking must occur at several points distributed around the whole perimeter of the sash, not just at handle height.
• Number of locking points: a basic residential window often has 4-6; a security version goes up to 8-12 per sash, and crucially adds points in the corners and on the hinge side (the point most commonly attacked by leverage).
• Make and model of the hardware: this should be stated in the quote. There are only a handful of serious hardware manufacturers in Europe, and certified hardware is designed and tested as a complete system, not assembled piece by piece.

The reliable, widely available hardware brands are essentially these:

Manufacturer	Example lines	Notes
Maco (Austria)	Multi-Matic, Multi-Trend	ESR keeps, mushroom cams common
Roto (Germany)	NT, Roto NX	Modular system, reinforceable locking points
Siegenia (Germany)	Titan AF, Titan iP	Lines with burglar-resistant versions
GU - Gretsch-Unitas (Germany)	UNI-JET	Versions with security kits
Winkhaus (Germany)	activPilot	Mushroom cams standard on some lines

This isn’t a ranking: these are simply the names that recur on serious windows. The practical point is that if a quote just says “burglar-resistant hardware” without a make, model and number of locking points, it’s a generic promise. Always ask for the precise specification.

2. Mushroom cams and steel keeps (versus linear)

This is where one of the most underrated differences plays out. The cam (or bolt) is the pin that, when the handle is turned, extends from the sash and slots into the keep mounted on the fixed frame. The shape of the cam changes everything:

• Linear (roller) cam: a smooth little cylinder. It holds the window shut against wind and provides a seal, but under the push of a crowbar levering the sash, it slips out of the keep. This is standard kit on cheap residential windows.
• Mushroom cam: has a widened, mushroom-shaped (or P/T-shaped) head. When it enters the matching keep, it goes into undercut: if someone tries to lever the sash off its frame, the mushroom head hooks behind the keep and resists the lift. It’s the single upgrade with the best security-to-cost ratio.

For the mushroom cam to work, though, it needs the right partner: the keeps must be steel (not plastic or soft zamak) and solidly anchored to the frame. A mushroom cam working against a plastic keep loses most of its point. So the question to ask is twofold: “are the cams mushroom-shaped?” and “are the keeps steel?”

A useful practical check: ask how many of the locking points are mushroom type. On some cheaper versions only one or two are fitted “for show”; in a proper configuration, mushroom points are distributed around the whole perimeter, on both the handle side and the hinge side.

3. Anti-lift hinges

A classic break-in technique is to lift the sash upward to slide it off its hinges and remove it, or to lever specifically on the hinge side, where the hardware traditionally offers less protection. Anti-lift hinges prevent this manoeuvre: they have a pin or locking system that stops the sash rising once closed.

What to ask for:

• Hinges specifically stated as anti-lift or “with anti-lift security”.
• On windows with exposed hinges, check that the pin isn’t simply removable.
• On the hinge side, the presence of additional locking points from the hardware (see point 1) is what completes the protection: anti-lift hinges plus mushroom cams on the hinge-side jamb are the correct combination.

It’s an inexpensive component but often “forgotten” in basic quotes. It’s worth asking for explicitly.

4. Key-locking or push-button handle

The standard lever handle has a specific flaw: if a burglar breaks a corner of glass near the handle (or drills a hole), they can reach in with a hand or a tool and turn the handle from the inside, opening the window without having to force the hardware at all. The countermeasures:

• Key-locking handle: locks in the closed position with a key. Without the key it won’t turn, so even reaching it from outside won’t open the window. This is the most widespread solution.
• Push-button handle: has a locking button that prevents rotation until deliberately pressed. More convenient than a key for everyday use.
• Handles with internal anti-rotation devices (for example, systems that resist forced rotation from outside): add a further layer of protection against the “break and turn” manoeuvre.

Worth weighing with common sense: a key-locking handle is excellent for security but requires keeping track of keys, and can be inconvenient on windows used frequently. On an escape route (bedrooms, occupied rooms), consider the balance between security and speed of opening in an emergency.

5. Security cylinder (where the window has one)

Not every window has a cylinder: you’ll find one on handles with a euro-profile lock and on many French doors. Where fitted, a basic cylinder is a weak link. For those who want the detail, it’s worth asking for a security cylinder with anti-drill, anti-bumping and anti-pull protection.

Be careful not to conflate the two contexts: the cylinder is the star of the show on security doors, where it’s the central security component. On windows it plays a secondary role compared with the hardware and the glass. If your main concern is the entrance door, that’s covered separately in the security doors section: windows and doors need to be assessed as two separate chapters.

6. Impact-resistant laminated glass

Glass is as much a part of the security system as the hardware: there’s no point armouring the frame if the glass then gives way to a shoulder charge. The answer is laminated glass, made of two or more panes bonded by one or more PVB (polyvinyl butyral) interlayers. When the glass is struck, it breaks, but the fragments stay bonded to the PVB, which holds the pane together and blocks passage through it.

The laminated glass code indicates its make-up. To read it:

Code	Indicative make-up	Typical use
33.1	3 mm + 1 PVB interlayer + 3 mm	Basic safety, fall-prevention
44.2	4 mm + 2 PVB interlayers + 4 mm	Entry-level burglar resistance
44.4	4 mm + 4 PVB interlayers + 4 mm	Reinforced burglar resistance
66.4 and above	6 mm + 4 interlayers + 6 mm	Higher levels

The first number is the thickness of each glass pane; the last figure is the number of PVB interlayers (more interlayers = more resistance). As a general indication, the higher it climbs, the more the glass withstands repeated blows.

Two practical points worth knowing:

• Security laminated glass should be fitted on the inner pane of the sealed unit (the one facing into the house), because that’s the one that has to stop the intruder after the outer pane has potentially already been broken. Ask for confirmation of where it’s positioned.
• Laminated glass can be combined with a low-emissivity sealed unit: you can have thermal insulation and impact resistance together, in a single glazing unit. For a full picture of how the glazing and the PVC frame work together, see the complete guide to PVC windows.

How these components add up to a class (in brief)

Without rewriting the guide to the classes, here’s how the components “add up”. Broadly, and by way of example:

• Basic residential level: 4-6 point multi-point hardware, linear cams, float sealed unit. Resists a push, not a tool.
• Towards RC1/RC2: distributed mushroom cams, steel keeps, anti-lift hinges, key-locking handle and laminated glass (e.g. 33.1 / 44.2) are added. This is the “sensible” zone for most homes.
• Towards RC3: everything reinforced, more locking points, thicker glass (44.4 and above), a frame with additional reinforcement.

The detail of which class corresponds to which floor level and context — and how much it costs to step up — is in the dedicated guide to RC classes. For now, it’s enough to know that asking for the right components is, in practice, what builds the class.

What to demand in the quote: the checklist to tick off

When you receive your quote, check that these items are stated. If they’re missing, ask for them explicitly.

1. Hardware: make, model and number of locking points (e.g. “Maco Multi-Matic, 10 points”).
2. Cams: stated as “mushroom” and on how many points; steel keeps.
3. Hinges: stated as “anti-lift”.
4. Handle: key-locking or push-button; any anti-rotation feature.
5. Cylinder (if fitted): security type, with anti-drill/anti-bumping.
6. Glass: laminated make-up (e.g. “44.2 on the inner pane”) and position of the security pane.
7. Any stated RC class, referenced against the manufacturer’s certification, if required.

A quote that says “security window” without these details isn’t verifiable. For a broader list of what to check in a window quote — not just on security — we’ve put together a dedicated guide on what to check in a window quote.

Common buying mistakes

• Buying security glass and forgetting the hardware: this is the most common mistake. Most window break-ins happen by levering the sash, not by smashing the glass. Hardware with mushroom cams comes before glass.
• Putting security only where it’s “visible”: the weak point is often the bathroom window, the roof light or the rear French door, not the main street-facing window.
• Accepting “burglar-resistant” with no brand named: without the hardware name and the number of locking points, you’re not buying anything verifiable.
• Confusing windows and doors: entrance security relies on different components (see security doors). Don’t automatically transfer reasoning from one to the other.

When it’s NOT worth it

Adding security components doesn’t always make sense everywhere. Examples where the extra cost gives little in return:

• Upper floors with no side access: a fifth-floor window with no walkways, accessible roofs or nearby scaffolding is statistically low-risk. There, basic laminated glass (also useful as fall-prevention) can be enough, without pushing reinforced hardware on every sash.
• Internal windows facing closed, overlooked courtyards: if the only access is a locked, visible communal courtyard, spending priorities lie elsewhere.
• A limited budget to spread around: if you have to choose, concentrate the security components on the genuinely accessible points (ground floor, first floor, rear French doors, reachable roof lights) rather than spreading a half-upgrade across the whole house. Half-security everywhere protects less than full security where it’s needed.
• Escape routes: on a window that also serves as an escape route, a key-locking handle can slow down emergency exit. Weigh the balance between security and speed of opening case by case.

In all these cases the rule is the same: spend in a targeted way on the real weak points, not “everything secured” as a matter of principle.

FAQ

Is burglar-resistant hardware worth more than security glass? In most cases yes, as a priority. Window break-ins mostly happen by levering the sash, and that’s where mushroom cams, steel keeps and anti-lift hinges make the decision. Laminated glass matters, but it’s the second line of defence, not the first. Ideally you have both; if you need to set an order, start with the hardware.

What exactly are “mushroom” cams? They’re locking pins with a widened, mushroom-shaped head. When they enter the keep they go into undercut: if someone levers to lift or force the sash off, the head hooks behind the keep and resists. Standard linear (roller) cams, by contrast, slip out under the same pressure. For them to work, they need matching steel keeps.

Can I add security components to windows I already have? Partly: on some existing windows you can replace keeps and cams, add anti-lift hinges or swap the handle for a key-locking one, if the hardware allows it. Laminated glass usually requires replacing the glazing unit. This needs checking on your specific window: not every system can be upgraded.

Is PVC strong enough for a security window? Yes, for typical residential levels. A serious PVC profile with internal steel reinforcement copes well with the burglar-resistance levels most commonly required for homes. Security, in any case, depends more on the hardware, the keeps and the glass than on the frame material itself.

What absolutely must be written into the quote? Hardware make and model with number of locking points, “mushroom cams” and “steel keeps” stated explicitly, hinges described as “anti-lift”, the type of handle, the glass make-up (e.g. 44.2) and where the security pane is positioned. If these items are missing, ask for them: it’s how you tell a genuinely secure window apart from a label.

Does a window with these components automatically count as “RC2 class”? Not automatically. The RC class is a certification that requires a laboratory test on the entire assembly. Having the right components substantially raises real security, but if you need a stated RC class (for example, to document it for insurance purposes), ask for the manufacturer’s explicit certification.

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If you’re about to replace your windows and want to work out which security components make sense — and which windows to focus them on — request a quote: we’ll assess your exposure and weak points together and point you towards the hardware, glass and fittings that matter, without selling “fully armoured” where it isn’t needed.